Thai Nguyen’s work exists at the intersection of memory and modernity, where craftsmanship becomes a form of storytelling and every garment carries the weight of heritage, identity, and intention. A queer Vietnamese American designer who began sewing at just nine years old in his parents’ sewing school in Vietnam, he has built a practice rooted in tradition while continuously reimagining what couture can mean today. Character sits down with a designer whose journey spans continents and cultures to talk about the language of clothing, the intimacy of custom design, and how staying true to one’s identity can itself become a legacy.
Photo Credit: Kenneth Medilo
Your designs often feel deeply personal, almost like chapters of a larger story. When did fashion become your language for expressing identity and emotion?
I was very fortunate to discover my passion for fashion at a young age. I learned how to sew at nine years old at my parents’ private sewing school in Vietnam. I watched them teach their students how to become tailors and seamstresses, not just to make clothes, but to build a livelihood and serve their community. Each garment had purpose. Each color, fabric, and silhouette carried meaning for different occasions and different lives. When my family immigrated to the United States in 1993, I already knew I wanted to attend fashion school and become a designer. From the beginning, my vision was never about mass production. I wanted to continue the tradition I grew up with, telling stories through custom made clothing and celebrating identity through craftsmanship. Even though my school encouraged a more commercial path, I followed my heart. To this day, I am doing exactly what I dreamed of as a child, creating garments that express people’s emotions, heritage, and individuality through design.
You have dressed some of the most visible names in entertainment, yet your work always carries a sense of intimacy. How do you maintain that personal connection at scale?
Fast fashion is made for everyone, and because of that, it is often quickly forgotten. What I create is couture, custom made, limited, often one of a kind pieces designed specifically for one person. That instantly creates a meaningful connection between the garment and the wearer. True luxury is not about producing more. It is about creating something rare and intentional. When something is made just for you, it becomes part of your story and can last a lifetime. I do not feel the need to design for everyone. Instead, I strive to create work that people dream of owning one day. Couture has been respected for centuries, and today it feels more important than ever as we rethink sustainability and our responsibility to the planet.
Craftsmanship is at the core of what you do. In a world driven by speed, what does true luxury mean to you today?
Time is true luxury. In today’s world, everything moves so quickly. I believe we need to slow down, to be present with our families, with ourselves, and with our work. When I invest time in my family, it strengthens my foundation in life. When I invest time in myself, I care more deeply for my mind, body, and spirit. And when I invest time in my work, I create designs that are more thoughtful and more lasting. For me, luxury is the ability to slow down and create something meaningful that will live beyond the moment.
Photo Credit: Kenneth Medilo
Your journey into fashion was not conventional. What challenges shaped your perspective as both a designer and a storyteller?
There were many challenges as a queer Vietnamese American designer entering one of the most competitive industries in the world, especially as an immigrant without connections or financial inheritance. One of the biggest challenges I faced was identity. Early in my career, I was encouraged to change my name to something more marketable and easier to pronounce. I was told to adjust my designs to fit industry expectations. I was even advised not to include too many Vietnamese cultural elements because they were considered too ethnic. For a long time, I felt I had to hide parts of myself to succeed. Even when I received recognition, I sometimes felt disconnected from my heritage and my truth. Everything changed during the pandemic. That moment gave me the clarity to reset and fully embrace who I am. Today, I proudly stand as a queer Vietnamese American designer and storyteller who independently carved his own path and celebrates his culture and community unapologetically through his work.
There is a strong sense of cultural influence woven into your work. How do you balance honoring heritage while creating something undeniably modern?
Culture is my foundation. I was born and raised in Vietnam for the first 13 years of my life, and later professionally trained in the United States. That naturally created an East meets West perspective in my design process. But the most important part of my work is the individual. Every person I design for has a unique story. When I listen carefully to who they are and what they represent, we create something together. When heritage meets personal storytelling, the result becomes timeless and naturally modern. That is where the magic happens.
Dressing someone for a defining moment, whether a red carpet or a personal milestone, comes with responsibility. How do you approach designing for moments that live on beyond the garment?
Every opportunity to dress someone for an important moment is a responsibility, and I never take that trust lightly. The most important step in my process is listening. If it is an award show, I want to understand what the award represents. If it is a film premiere, I want to understand the story behind the film. If it is a personal milestone, I want to understand what the moment means in their life. Once I truly listen, I begin to see colors, fabrics, and silhouettes come together in my mind. From there, the garment becomes a collaboration between their story and my interpretation as a designer. The most meaningful result is when someone wears the finished piece and still fully sees themselves in it. That is when the garment becomes part of their legacy, not just something they wore.
Photo Credit: Kenneth Medilo
As your visibility grows, have you had opportunities that pulled you away from your brand and how do you protect your design identity?
At this stage in my life, I believe strongly in the power of saying no. My path is clear. The DNA of my brand is clear. And I am very happy both personally and professionally. Today, I choose opportunities that align with my values and my vision. Earlier in my career, I often worked nonstop trying to prove myself. Now I understand that protecting my time also protects my creativity. I want to invest my energy in people and projects that truly value what I bring. That allows me to create stronger work and remain authentic to who I am as a designer.
What is your Call Your Shot moment, when did you decide to go after something and refuse to let uncertainty stop you?
My Call Your Shot moment happened during the pandemic about five years ago. That was a turning point in my life. Everything paused, and I had the opportunity to reset and reflect deeply on my purpose. I realized I wanted to dedicate the rest of my career to creating work that would leave a lasting cultural impact. Since the first day I learned to sew at nine years old in my parents’ sewing school in Vietnam, I have been on this path. But during that moment, I became fully clear about my legacy. I hope that future generations will remember me as Thai Nguyen, a queer Vietnamese American designer who lived a joyful life doing what he loved every day, creating garments for beautiful people while celebrating culture and heritage through the timeless language of the ao dai.
Thai Nguyen
Photographed by Kenneth Medilo @kenmedilophoto
Styling + Creative Direction Benjamin Holtrop @benjaminholtrop at @thewallgroup
Grooming Brittany T, Nikki L, Kelly T, Kahn at @KellyZhangAgency
Production Aleksandar Tomovic @alekandsteph
Socials Tesia Kuh @thefirstthree.co
Production Coordinator Chalisa Phiboolsook @chalisaphi
Talent Coordinator Isabella Nuqui @_snowdust_
Location BELLO Media Group x Maison Privée @BELLOmediaGroup @maisonpriveePR_LA
