Inside South Korean Label KUMANN YOO HYE JIN

 

“Futuristic Folklore” is a befitting title to understanding HyeJin Yoo’s perspectives on spring fashion with her presentation for KUMANN YOO HYE JIN 2015.  This isn’t a collection for those who prefer safer, ready-to-wear lines. This is about appreciating symbolism, engineering and a bit of mathematics.  Beauty is found within the heavily structured looks with a nod towards today’s science fiction animation and technology printed on pastel jacquards, organzas and cottons.  Yes, those are definitely spaceships.  If you aren’t into sci-fi, she has equally interesting and provoking designs in neutral to bright shades.

Yoo works endlessly to create masterpieces that are becoming the future we can expect from the Kumann studio, while she continues to build stability for the label.  We knew viewing her clothing would bring thoughtful discussion, so we reached out to learn more about this designer that expertly molds together so many contrasting ideas into a well-balanced and fluid collection.

HyeJin Yoo
Designer And Head of KUMANN, HyeJin Yoo, Image Courtesy Of Seoulfashionweek.org

Audrey Magazine: When you became the head of Kumann, how did you want to redefine the label, and how do feel that style translates into your current SS 2015 collection?
HyeJin Yoo: Kumann is the name originated from the early studio of the company. When I decided to start working on the label, I felt that I needed to reconsider the story of the studio, and its original value and identity. I have been re-identifying the brand’s characters in constructive design and original graphic patterns, which are based on different concepts of seasonal collections. Particularly, for spring and summer 2015, I interpret the concept of the future and folklore with specific color arrangements and computer-embroidered spaceship images made in 3D graphics.

AM: With the SS 2015 concept of “Futuristic Folklore,” have you always had an interest in those patterns and sci-fi animation?  What inspired you to put the two concepts together as one?
HJY: Sci-fi movies and ideas of cyborgs have been greatly influencing my ideas. I am directing the brand as a high-end boutique, but I do love to mix it up with images and symbols from sub-culture. I have also been very much interested in the theoretical ideas of time and space in a parallel universe, and in Buddhism. Basically, I think that people are very accustomed to a dichotomous way of thinking. Dualism affects our perceptions and languages by dividing things in the extreme, but I think that any of those two extremes could be blended just like other previous concepts, ‘Nostalgic Future’ and ‘Urban Shamanist’.

AM: What sort of emotions do you hope to evoke for viewers and wearers of your designs?
HJY: I am drawing a woman who wears uniqueness and originality of her own. I hope both viewers and wearers have exceptional experiences and at the same time will feel assertive and happy.

AM: Can you share with us some of the challenges and accomplishments you’ve had with your current collection?
HJY: Making clothes is accompanied with various problems, especially a small boutique business like us. I am trying to set stable and secure finances to save the scale of business. Since we have launched the brand named KUMANN, we also just opened a shop with a mid-low brand ‘K. kumann’ last September at DOOTA in Seoul. I am hoping that it could be a good start to keep the business safe.

AM: When you aren’t designing what are some of your favorite hobbies?
HJY: I’m trying not to think of anything while I’m not designing. It helps me to focus on what should be coming next. One of my favorites is walking in the places only I know, and think nothing, then I feel I get better and I can go back to work and people.

Below is more from the spring 2015 collection.

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Yoo’s Digitally Printed Spaceships
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More Sci-fi Options
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Dark Designs For Late Winter

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Classic Black And White
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Spring Pastels And Bold Accents
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Brighter Hues For Welcoming Summer

Feature image and all imagery is courtesy of HyeJin Yoo.  

 

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