For decades, the global luxury system largely followed one direction: Asian consumers looked toward European fashion houses.
The appointment of Sabato De Sarno as creative director of Chinese label ICICLE suggests that relationship may be evolving.
The Shanghai- and Paris-based fashion company recently tapped the former Gucci creative director to oversee women’s and men’s ready-to-wear, accessories, and eyewear beginning with Fall/Winter 2027.
It’s a significant hire.
De Sarno brings experience from some of Europe’s most recognizable luxury houses, including Gucci and Valentino. But this time, that expertise is moving toward a Chinese brand rather than the other way around.
Founded in Shanghai in 1997, ICICLE has built its identity around understated design, natural materials, craftsmanship, and a philosophy closely connected to nature. Its expansion into Paris has already positioned the company between Chinese and European fashion cultures.
De Sarno’s appointment pushes that conversation further.
For years, Western luxury brands have looked toward Asia as one of their most important markets. Increasingly, however, Asian companies are developing the resources, infrastructure, and creative ambition to become international luxury players themselves.
That doesn’t mean replacing Paris or Milan. It means expanding the geography of where globally influential luxury brands can originate.
ICICLE’s next chapter will be an interesting test of that possibility.
Perhaps the more important question is no longer whether Asian consumers will continue shaping luxury.
It’s whether Asian brands will increasingly define it.
