South Korea’s Concept of Fashion
The government-sponsored initiative brought a quintet of Korean fashion designers to New York Fashion Week for a sixth season.
story by DAVID YI
photographs by MICHAEL IP
Seoul has become serious about fashion as of late—especially on an international scale. Dubbed the “new Milan” by fashion critics and editors alike, the city has become a burgeoning hub for all things sartorial and high fashion.
The taste-making downtown New York boutique Opening Ceremony just had South Korea as its latest featured country. K-pop group 2NE1 made a style splash on a global level with their Adidas Originals campaign with Nicki Minaj and Skye Ferreira. And then there’s Concept Korea, a runway show sponsored by the Korean government—now in its sixth season—to promote Korean fashion in the U.S. at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week, at Lincoln Center in New York.
The show is part of the South Korean government’s attempt to break into the tough world of American fashion. South Korea’s most promising designers were chosen by a small group of fashion’s most influential, including Fern Mallis, founder of New York Fashion Week, Colleen Sherin, fashion director at Saks Fifth Avenue, Carol Song, head buyer at Opening Ceremony, and others.
The five designers this season were Lie Sang Bong, Choi Bo Ko, Kathleen Kye, Song Jung Wan and Hongbum Kim. This season Concept Korea opted for a full-on runway show called “Rhythm of Korea,” rather than a traditional presentation, though it was apparently difficult filling seats; the front row where we sat was pretty sparsely populated. Nonetheless the show was good, if short of great. Each of the designers picked 10 looks to showcase.
LIE SANG BONG
Dubbed Seoul’s Alexander McQueen, Bong turned heads at the show when a model walked out in an oval headpiece that glowed down the runway. The designer—who was in the running to dress Beyoncé for her Super Bowl performance—showed printed neoprene jackets, slick, sexy dresses and tailored dresses.
SON JUNG WAN
Son Jung Wan’s collection featured retro/glam references, with gowns made of royal purple tulle, and dresses with mink trims and fur sleeves. The designer—a favorite of Korean star Hyori—also showed her full collection later that week. Though it wasn’t exactly groundbreaking, everything was beautifully made.
“Commercially, New York is the best city to show in,” she said. “It’s a big honor for me. I’m so proud to show here.”
CHOIBOKO by Choi Bo Ko
“If you can make it in New York City, you can make it anywhere,” said Choi Bo Ko. The designer has been in business for over 40 years and sells in high-end boutiques, as well as on Korea’s home shopping network. “It’s great to be here at Concept Korea because it represents our own colors, the five of us, and a great identity,” he said.
Choi’s collection, called “Waltz of the Gods,” took inspiration from abstract images of nature and dance, and mixed such fabrics as mink, shearling and felt. The standout piece was a drool-worthy white moto jacket with shearling sleeves.
CRES E. DIM by Hongbum Kim
Hongbum Kim introduced his line, Cres. E Dim (for crescendo and diminuendo), which was full of heavy, luxe leather made for the downtown girl who’s dark and tough, yet chic. “I’m very glad to show in New York City,” he said. “New York is my favorite market, and it really fits my design [aesthetic] and spirit.”
KYE by Kathleen Kye
Kathleen Kye, 26, played on her inspiration of the Seoul Station. This included graffiti prints and fur outerwear in electric blues that wowed. The young Korean American designer is already praised in South Korea among the young and cool, and is gaining momentum here in the States. Opening Ceremony just picked up her line. Stand-out looks included print-on-prints and outerwear like a fur jacket in electric blue.
This article was published in the March 2013 issue of KoreAm. Subscribe today! To purchase a single issue copy of the March issue, click the “Buy Now” button below. (U.S. customers only. Expect delivery in 5-7 business days).
